Vintage Knitting, Retro Dressmaking, Make do and Mend, Original and Vintage Inspired Knitting Patterns, Vintage Inspired books

Tuesday, June 16, 2015

Swatching for Bowland



Over this last week I have had a wonderful time playing with colours for my second Bowland for the Bowland KAL. I regularly get asked how I choose colours for a Fair Isle knit and I have found the only sure fire way of being certain of your chosen colours is to knit swatches. I usually knit at least two peerie (small motif) repeat and one main motif to really see how all the colours balance over the whole design. If there is going to be a welt I would always include a few rows of the welt colour in the swatch at the beginning again to be sure of seeing the balance over all.

I begin by charting out a single repeat of the pattern - in this case the 12 stitch repeat of the main motif and 3 repeats of the 4 stitch peerie and then begin to experiment with colour combinations. I initially tried to apply the same colour combination rules as I had applied on the original Bowland design on all the swatches - The welt and button band colour would only be used again on the centre row of the main motif; the colour used for the 'arrows' on the peerie motif would only be used again on the centre row and the centre row of the peerie would be used for the inner petal rows on the main motif and finally lighter colour backgrounds and stronger colours for the pattern. However rules are sometimes made to be broken and I found I could create some very interesting combinations that were very different to the original if I broke some of these self imposed rules.

Working a Swatch

I usually cast on the equivalent of 4 repeats - so in this case 48 sts on a circular needle. I work the welt back and forth and then when working the colour work sections I knit to the end of the row then draw the knitting back towards the right hand needle point and carry any required yarn across the back of the work leaving a long length and knit the next row - again on the RS of the work. I introduce any new colours simply by starting to knit with them. I leave lengths that are at least the width of the swatch itself and then when the swatch is cast off, I just cut the stranded lengths in half at the back of the work.

Lets have a look at some of my colour swatches. All the swatch are knitting using my Excelana 4 ply - used for the original Bowland, and perfect for colour work. I knitted three swatches from a combination of the following 6 colours - Nile Green, Land Army Green, Ruby Red, Persian Grey, French Rose and Alabaster to create an 'Art Deco' colourway.

Deco 1


I particularly like the softness yet depth of this swatch. Using the French Rose and the Nile Green as the background colours has created quite a cool feeling palette.

Deco 2


This swatch immediately looks far warmer and more intense using the Persian Grey as the background for the peerie pattern and abandoning the rule of the welt colour only being used in very small amounts in the body of the garment. Here I've used the strength of Ruby Red to great effect creating a strong impact. I have also only used 5 of the 6 colours, omitting Land Army Green which would have taken the swatch in a different direction

Deco 3


This swatch again only uses the same 5 colours as Deco 2 but by using Alabaster as the background colour to the main motif and softening the peerie by using French Rose as the centre row, this swatch has a very different feel to Deco 2.

The next selection I worked with was using the original colours from my design. These are Sweet Chestnut, Alabaster, Dark Mandarin, Land Army Green, Damson Wine and Nile Green.

Original Colours 2


I tried with this first swatch to switch the colours in the main body around whilst leaving the welt in Sweet Chestnut. However I don't feel that this swatch works very well as the flower motif worked in Damson Wine is lost in the Land Army background. Likewise the centre row of the main motif using Dark Mandarin and Nile Green doesn't show up against the Alabaster as much as I would like. Interestingly on screen, using my charting programme, this colourway looked very striking and it was only as I knitted it that I could see that it really didn't work.

Original Colours 3


This swatch works far better I feel. I have changed the welt to Land Army Green and changed around all the other colours to create a much more balanced arrangement. If I were to use this selection I think I would change the Damson Wine at the centre of the peerie to Nile Green just to make the peerie pattern pop a little more.


I love this close up which really shows how the colours blend together. You can also see on this image the small fibres which cling together in a 'sticky' wool which in turn makes steeking a much easier process than many people imagine, as well as holding stitches together giving a much neater finished surface to your Fair Isle knitting.

And now for two very special swatches using three incredibly limited edition colours of Excelana 4 ply. In fact at this point, I only have around 20 skeins of each of the three colours. These three colours have enabled me to create what I think of as a true 'vintage' palette.

Vintage 1


Here we have Vintage colourway 1, featuring  a Coral Red, a Bright Blue and a pale Sky Blue as well as Powdered Egg, Alabaster and Cornflower Blue. I am desperate for a blue based Fair Isle cardigan in my wardrobe and these two new shades really take the palette in a very different direction.

Vintage 2


This second colourway is almost my absolute favourite, using the two blues to great effect, whilst minimising the use of Alabaster thus creating a more tonal effect. The flowers on the main motif however, really come alive using Powdered Egg and the Coral Red against the Bright Blue.


The Cornflower Blue used for the welt is used sparingly at the centre of the main motif as per my original rules and has a really powerful impact as a result.

I'm thinking that this swatch might be the one but I'm very tempted to try one more swatch where the arrows of the peerie are knitted in Alabaster rather than Bright Blue and I just might have created the perfect colour palette for my next Bowland accidentally using all the rules I imposed on myself for the original design!

What do you all think? What colour way do you like best? What changes would you make and do you have any colour combining tips for us?

This new colourway will be available as an extremely limited edition kit from Friday 19th June at 9am (BST). The Deco colourway kit will also be available to purchase at that point aswell.

Don't forget you can join in the Bowland KAL at any time. Simply purchase your Bowland pattern either from my website or via ravelry and join in the fun and discussion on my ravelry group.


If you want to see all of the Excelana colours 'up close and personal' (other than the three super limited shades) both Williams Wools in Kendal and Knit with Attitude in Stoke Newington have all 12 colours available.

Until next time,
Susan xx

Thursday, May 28, 2015

Bowland KAL (knitalong)


I’m delighted to announce our first specific garment KAL and by popular demand it is of course, Bowland. The KAL will commence on Monday 8th June. You can have already started knitting your Bowland or you can commence at any time during the KAL.


As we all have a complete cardigan with steeks to knit I’m going to run the KAL for a three month period to give everyone time to get the entire project knitted, steeked and finished. I will be doing periodic blog posts about the design and tutorials to help people with the trickier aspects of the knitting process. 


To share details of your project on twitter please share with @astitchintime and use the hash tag #bowland to be sure I see it. On instagram share with @susancrawfordvintage and again use the hash tag #bowland. At the end of the KAL I will publish a special blog post featuring all the projects. 

Sharing your cardigans on Ravelry

Please feel free to share colour choices/swatches/works in progress on the main KAL thread on my Ravelry group. I will also set up a separate thread for finished Bowlands. Any questions can also be directed to the main KAL thread. If enough people are interested we can even do a live chat room discussion via the group about the project.

So what do you need to join in?

Well first of all you will need the pattern which you can get from my online shop or ravelry.

The cardigan is knitted in Excelana 4 ply wool and uses the following quantities:

2 (2, 3, 3, 4) 50g balls shade Sweet Chestnut - A [318 (318, 477, 477, 636) metres]
1 (1, 1, 2, 2) 50g balls shade Nile Green - B [159 (159, 159, 318, 318) metres]
2 (2, 2, 3, 3) 50g balls shade Alabaster - C [318 (318, 318, 477, 477) metres]
1 (1, 1, 2, 2) 50g balls shade Damson Wine - D [159 (159, 159, 318, 318) metres]
1 (1, 1, 2, 2) 50g balls shade Land Army Green - E [159 (159, 159, 318, 318) metres]
1 (1, 2, 2, 2) 50g balls shade Dark Mandarin - F 159 (159, 318, 318, 318) metres]

If you are substituting a different yarn, be sure to choose a ‘sticky’ yarn and preferably wool to aid the steeking process. I’ll explain this more fully when we get to cutting our steeks open. 

The yarn for the project is available in kit form from my shop and I will be adding and sharing some other colourways over the next few days.

I’ve already seen some wonderful swatches on ravelry and am very excited to see what ideas everyone has. I’m off to pick a new colour palette for my next Bowland!

for now
Susan xx

Wednesday, May 20, 2015

Lithuanian Knitting and how Knitting brings the Past into the Present

I'm very excited about the forthcoming publication from the extremely talented Donna Druchunas and equally talented co-author, June Hall.


Lithuanian Knitting Continuing Traditions promises to introduce us to Lithuanian knitting techniques and traditions as well as introduce us to the knitters, weavers, spinners and sheep of this fascinating country. To top it all there are 25 knitting patterns celebrating this rich knitting heritage. One of my favourite patterns from the book are these beautiful mittens.


Donna has kindly written a blog post for me, telling us more about this book and how you can get involved in its publication.

Donna: I'm not the kind of person who is nostalgic or dreams of the "good old days." I love living in a modern world with the internet and cars and antibiotics and so many life-improving inventions. But I do think there are some things we've lost in our frantic rush into the future in the Western world. One way I connect to the past is through knitting.


Mezgimas, the most popular vintage knitting book in Lithuanian

Boy wearing knitted outfit from the Mezgimas knitting book
Vintage knitting designs provide me a window into a life that was slower and less commercial. Where people took time to make things for themselves, and often this was less expensive than buying a similar garment in the store! On the personal side, I think about my grandmothers and their mothers sewing, knitting, crocheting and doing so many other handicrafts and with each stitch I make in my own newest knitting project, I make another stitch in my memory letting me connect with loved ones who are no longer with us.

If you're familiar with my work, you will know that in addition to having a passion for knitting, I also love history and storytelling. Most of my books are cross-genre with stories and history as well as a collection of knitting projects that are used as illustrations to the story. I'm continuing this trend with my newest book, Lithuanian Knitting: Continuing Traditions. In this book, I take my connections to the past and my family history even further back in time, to Eastern Europe, where all of my great grandparents were born.

In 2007, I made my first trip to Lithuania. I was the first one in my family to return since my ancestors came to the United States in the first years of the twentieth century. For over one hundred years, we were Americans. I'm still an American--how could I not be after living in this country for 53 years--but after visiting Lithuania, I feel a strong connection to the lands of my heritage. In Lithuanian Knitting: Continuing Traditions, I explore this heritage through knitting, along with memoir, travel essays, and lots of information about what's going on in the knitting world of Lithuania today. 

June and Donna with Marija in Lithuania
My co-author, June Hall, is also partly of Lithuanian descent. She brings an English perspective to the book. I could not have created this book without her collaboration. June's experience raising sheep, being a member the Wool Clip fiber-artist co-operative in Cumbria, organizing WoolFest, and serving on the board of the Rare Breeds Survival Trust in the UK make her uniquely qualified to offer us a glimpse into the world of Lithuanian sheep breeds and their wool. June is also a fiber-artist in her own right, and has had her articles and designs published in magazines in the UK and the USA.

June with a gift of Lithuanian wool
I hope you'll join us on our adventure and check out our Pubslush campaign to raise the funds to print this book in Lithuania and give back to the local economy. We are 95% funded with about a week to go, so don't miss your chance to be one of the first people to get this book and receive some really special bonus rewards, too!

Thank you Donna, and I'm sure you'll all agree that this is going to be one heck of a book!

for now,
Susan xx


Wednesday, May 13, 2015

New Pattern Release - Heywood Hill


My wonderfully talented collaborater on Knits for a Cold Climate, Tess Young, has created a stunning shawl pattern for the collection featuring a bold art deco colourway and striking stripes. I'll pass you over to Tess for the rest of this blog post to tell us about the inspiration behind Heywood Hill:


The Heywood Hill shawl takes its inspiration from the use of bold colour blocks and simpler cuts and shapes characteristic of 1920s and 1930s fashions. Influenced by modernist avant-garde artistic movements, such design features were a stark contrast with the Edwardian pastels and more complex, structured garments.  It is perhaps this degree of contrast that slowed the move from innovative turn of the century haute couture, to wider adoption. Although the relative speed of change in women’s social position and roles precipitated by World War I, also appears to have shifted expectations and accelerated change in women’s wardrobes.



Simple to knit this shawl is also incredibly simple to wear as the ‘V’ shape ensures it sits flat at the neck and drapes nicely over the shoulders to the front and at the back. The beaded tassels give it an added elegance and restrained glamour. 


The two colourways used for the samples, the bolder colours for the large and the subtler colours for the medium, show the versatility of both the design and the Fenella yarn palette. 


The Heywood Hill shawl is named after the Mayfair bookshop where Nancy Mitford worked in the later war years of the 1940s.


This coincided with her perhaps most productive literary period immediately prior to the publication of The Pursuit of Love (1945) and Love in a Cold Climate (1949) and perhaps signaled a timely change in her literary fortunes. 

Nancy’s marriage to Peter Rodd in 1933 came to be characterised by his numerous affairs. Nancy herself suffered miscarriages and an ectopic pregnancy that resulted in a hysterectomy. In addition her experiences as a relief worker during the Spanish Civil War had cemented her anti-fascism and the outbreak of World War II had divided the Mitford family and seen Rodd commissioned and overseas.

Thus Heywood Hill appears to have been not only a place of convalescence but also of literary escape.

Her sister Debo recalled this period:

It was the best fun in the world. She earned £3 a week and lived in Maida Vale and often walked home to save the bus fare.” 

Family connections with Heywood Hill developed at this time continue as a result of Nancy introducing Debo’s then new husband Andrew Cavendish to the bookshop. By the 1990s he was a major shareholder in the shop and instituted the Heywood Hill Literacy prize which continued until his death in 1990 when its last recipient was Beryl Bainbridge. The Heywood Hill prize was awarded to a writer, publisher or anyone else deserving of recognition for their contribution to 'the enjoyment of books'. The shop is now completely in the family since Debo and Andrew's son Peregrine 'Stoker' Cavendish, 12th Duke of Devonshire became the sole owner of Heywood Hill. 

I can just imagine Nancy working at the shop with a Heywood Hill shawl draped over her shoulders and then wrapped around her snuggly as she walked home. 


Pattern details:

You can buy the PDF  pattern from the Susan Crawford shop here 
OR

You can buy the pattern from Ravelry here. (You do not need to be a member of Ravelry to make a purchase from the site.)

The PDF pattern costs £4

You can also purchase or take a look at all the possible colour combinations of Fenella in the shop here and a kit will also be available shortly from the Susan Crawford Vintage shop.

Materials Required:

Susan Crawford Fenella 2ply wool, 100% British wool
(124 metres per 25g skein)

Large
5 skeins of shade Myristica
1 skein of shade Atomic Red
1 skein of shade Phthalo
1 skein of shade Limoncello

Medium
3 skeins of shade Roman Plaster
1 skein of shade Delicot
1 skein of shade Columbine
1 skein of shade Constance Spry

Needles and Notions Needed

1 pair of 2.75mm (US 2) needles 
1 pair of 4mm (US 6) needles 
1 removable Stitch marker

Beads (optional ) Gutermann Rocailles 9/0 -
Large: 3g each of colours 1265 (yellow) 8360 (light green), 4295 (light red)
Medium: 9g of clear beads (col.1016)

I hope you enjoy Heywood Hill
Tess




Monday, May 11, 2015

Announcing a Barn Sale!



Over the years I have managed to collect a huge amount of 'stuff' and after vainly attempting to upload just some of this onto Ebay,  I decided a much less time consuming and much more fun way of finding it all new homes would be by opening our barn doors to the public for the first time and having a Barn Sale.

There will be mountains of yarn for sale, fabric, patterns, books, vintage bric-a-brac, a little furniture, lots of ex-display garments, clothes - vintage & otherwise, handbags, jewellery, haberdashery, handbags, shoes, CAKES, plants, farm produce, free range eggs, and possibly more.

There will be refreshments for sale - homemade cakes, snacks and soup, hot and cold drinks and mini tours around the farm to meet the sheep, chickens and ducks throughout the two days.

If you would like to come along here are the details:

The Barn Sale will be taking place at Monkley Ghyll on Saturday 6th June and Sunday 7th June from 11am - 4pm each day.

You can find full details and useful information on my website here. I have also gathered some information about places to stay as some people have already expressed a wish to make a weekend of it. If you register your interest via the email on the website and let me know that you need accommodation information I can forward that to you too.

It will be a wonderful opportunity to welcome every one to the farm for the first time before we formally open for workshops etc later in the year. I'm really excited about it and I hope to see some of you here.

for now,
Susan xx




Tuesday, April 28, 2015

Bowland



Bowland has been a long time in the making. I first started working on this design almost two years ago and have played with it and tinkered with it endlessly to create a basic Fair Isle cardigan pattern which is interesting enough for established Fair Isle knitters to enjoy knitting it, but for it to also provide beginner Fair Isle knitters with an achievable garment project.


Bowland is knitted in the round from the bottom up. As it is a cardigan this requires a steek positioned at the centre front. The steek will be cut open towards the end of the knitting and button bands picked up on either side. At the armholes two further steeks are added for joining the sleeves. These two steeks are cut open, the sleeve stitches are picked up around the armholes and the sleeves are then knitted downwards to the cuffs.


There is almost no shaping in the garment other than on the sleeves, to make the knitting process as simple as possible, allowing the knitter to focus on their Fair Isle technique. The same motif patterns are used throughout the design again making it easier to build up familiarity and confidence during the knitting process. The sleeves have a slightly dropped shoulder again for ease of knitting. Any shaping or casting off is done on plain knit rows so there is no pattern to worry about at the same time.


The shoulders are joined together using three needle cast-off to provide structure and shape to the cardigan. This technique is fully explained in the pattern.

The raw edges of the steek are concealed behind a decorative ribbon which runs up both button bands and around the neck band. This in turn strengthens the button bands, stops them from stretching and makes them look very very pretty when your cardigan is left open or is hung on the back of a chair.


The pattern instructions themselves are extremely thorough and over the next few weeks I will be adding additional tutorials on the website to assist further. I knit Fair Isle with one colour in each hand which will be one of the new tutorials. Details of this technique are also included in the pattern.

However if you've never done Fair Isle knitting before there is a basic introduction video which you can already view on my website.

The Fair Isle motifs are shown as full colour charts and have been carefully designed so that no 'catching' of yarns along the rows is required. You can simply strand the yarn at the back of the work as you carry it forward to be used. There is also never more than two colours on any one row.

How to cut your steek is also shown and explained in the pattern.


The pattern comes in a wide range of sizes to cover from 30-52 inch (76-132 cm) bust. I'm wearing the 42-44 inch (107-112 cm) and the cardigan is designed to have a fairly close fit to ensure the shoulders fit nicely.

Bowland is knitted in Excelana 4ply using Alabaster, Sweet Chestnut, Land Army Green, Nile Green, Damson Wine and Dark Mandarin. The yarn is also available in kit form on the website. Excelana works beautifully for Fair Isle knitting. It is a 'sticky' yarn so the stitches want to hold together - always reassuring when you intend to cut them apart!

The great news is the yarn is also available as a kit from the website along with a free project bag.
You can get the kits here.


So why "Bowland"? Funnily enough this pattern has spent most of its life without a name. It was just the Basic Fair Isle Cardigan. Which seems a bit uninspiring seeing as most people who see it fall in love with it. Then a few weeks ago, a good friend mentioned how my colour palette had been affected by living here at the farm, and realising how true this was, the name simply fell into place. Our farm is in an Area of Outstanding Beauty known as the Forest of Bowland. The cardigan is knitted in very autumnal, 'foresty' colours and so it made sense to name it, Bowland. My first, but certainly not my last, design to be named after where I now live. One of the biggest influences on me though, has been the immediate surroundings of the farm, and when looking for a backdrop for the photoshoot it was no surprise to see that the same colours that could be found in Bowland were echoed in the architecture around me.


My favourite barn door became the natural place to use for the photos, the various shades of fading green paint reflecting both shades of green in the cardigan, the rusting metal and multi-hued stone capturing the tones of the Sweet Chestnut edgings and the Dark Mandarin detail shot through the Fair Isle design.


So a few weeks ago, when my lovely daughter, Charlie, was visiting, I cajoled her into taking photos of me. I think photographers make particularly bad models, as we spend more time thinking about the camera settings and the light and the background than we do about ourselves and must be thoroughly annoying to deal with. I'm really not happy modelling. I would much rather be behind the camera but I am slowly beginning to come to terms with being the model. Charlie somehow got me to behave myself though and she took the fabulous photos above. She made me feel a lot better about the whole thing - and if I could just stop analysing my short comings in the photos I'll hopefully learn to enjoy it!

So for the details

Bowland is available as a PDF download pattern from either my ravelry shop 
or 
from my online shop 
for
£5.00

A printed version of the pattern will be available in the near future from myself and other wool shops. Also Bowland along with all my other single patterns will be available on Deramores and Loveknitting websites in the very near future. 

There are no purchasing problems if you reside in Europe - you can purchase the PDF download pattern from either ravelry or my own online shop - vat is included in the purchase price of the download.

Materials required are as follows:


Susan Crawford Excelana Luxury 4 ply wool 
100% pure new British wool (159m/174yds per 50g ball)
2 (2, 3, 3, 4) 50g balls shade Sweet Chestnut - A
1 (1, 1, 2, 2) 50g balls shade Nile Green - B
2 (2, 2, 3, 3) 50g balls shade Alabaster - C
1 (1, 1, 2, 2) 50g balls shade Damson Wine - D
1 (1, 1, 2, 2) 50g balls shade Land Army Green - E
1 (1, 2, 2, 2) 50g balls shade Dark Mandarin - F
1 2.75mm circular needle (40cm long)
1 2.75mm circular needle (80cm long)
1 3.25mm circular needle (40cm long)
1 3.25mm circular needle (60cm long)
1 3.25mm circular needle (80cm long)
Set of 2.75mm double pointed needles
Set of 3.25mm double pointed needles 
Waste yarn
Stitch markers
Safety pins
Spare needles
Needle and thread
Scissors
9 Buttons
2m Coordinating ribbon



The multi sized pattern comes in the following size ranges:

To fit bust: 
                76-81cm (30-32in); 86-97cm (34-38in); 107-112cm (42-44in); 
               117-122cm (46-48in); 127-132cm (50-52in)

Full sizing information is included in the pattern.

Yarn kits are available with a free project bag from my website starting at £44 for the first size.

If there is enough interest I would love to launch a KAL for the cardigan to begin in a few weeks time so that we can all work our way through the various skills needed together so maybe pop a comment on this post if a Fair Isle with steeking knitalong would be of interest.


Friday, April 17, 2015

Knits from the Madding Crowd



Last night I watched the trailer for the new version of Far from the Madding Crowd staring Carey Mulligan and Tom Sturridge as Bathsheba and Troy. The 1967 film adaption of the Thomas Hardy novel, starring Julie Christie, Terence Stamp and Alan Bates as Gabriel,  is without doubt one of my favourite films. One Sunday afternoon at about the age of twelve I watched the film for the first time. I fell passionately in love and lust with Terence Stamp - a love that lasts to this day. He was responsible for a dangerous desire for dark eyed, skinny, effete, hedonistic, beautiful bad boys that got me into a heap of trouble over the years!


 Looking for images of Stamp in the film to share with my daughter whose passion is understandably for Sturridge, I stumbled across some fabulous images of Stamp in knitwear and moving on I discovered a link between the casts of both films and that link is the chaps have all modelled knitwear!


These amazing intarsia jumpers were modelled by Stamp with his model girlfriend, Jean Shrimpton for a European fashion magazine.


Next I found several images of the equally sexy Alan Bates modelling the 'Country Man' look.




And again in this gorgeous, chunky cardigan


Tom Sturridge started his career as a model and wears a lot of cool knits but here he is in a particularly spectacular jumper.

Finally, to round off our look at chaps connected with Far from the Madding Crowd would you believe I found a picture of 'Thomas' Hardy in knitwear! Wearing both a cardigan and a Fair Isle sleeveless pullover at the same time.

And here he is..


OK, that's Tom Hardy not Thomas Hardy but do I really need an excuse to show Hardy in a cardi?

So, for now,

Susan xx